Lou and Tom Luddington discovered an island paradise when their boat needed repairs following a crossing of the Atlantic.
Guadeloupe, a French Caribbean island, is the southernmost of the Leeward Islands. Like a butterfly it is split in two, with the wings of the western half forming Basse-Terre and the eastern side forming Grande-Terre. The varied coastline is a source of fascination for both land and sea explorers.
The south-east was a sunlit seagrass plain, where green turtles and stingrays were spotted. Out west, we dived into the Cousteau Reserve’s deep blue water and coral gardens, while humpbacks sang us to sleep. The squally winds made us more alert and adventurous on the passage, as we traveled between anchorages on a partial circumnavigation measured in weeks or months.
Our recent Atlantic crossing required us to make essential boat repairs. A broken chainplate on the bobstay meant that we needed both a chandlery as well as a boatyard equipped with a lifting, which was not available in Dominica. This was our first Caribbean landfall. Heading to Pointe-à-Pitre, the main port that lies deep in the southerly cleft of Guadeloupe, we learned there was a four-week waiting list for the lift.
We booked in and resigned ourselves to a few weeks of exploring nearby – we had broken the chainplate on the third day of our 25-day Atlantic crossing, rendering our genoa unusable. We could, however, manage a few more weeks’ sailing without the big headsail.
The route
South Coast
After two nights in Bas du Four marina at Pointe-à-Pitre we set off south-east for Iles de la Petite-Terre, a tiny group of low lying islands off the far south-east corner of Guadeloupe. Anchorage is located in a protected lagoon between the islands. It can be reached via a shallow pass on the reef. On a calm morning, we sailed through and were guided to the lagoon, by a bottlenose dolphin, who burst out of the water, breathed through its blowhole then vanished.
These two uninhabited islands, which are 10 km from the coast of Guadeloupe’s nearest island, were declared a nature reserve by the government in 1998. The government recognized their importance as a stronghold of lesser Antilles Iguanas as well as a nesting site for three different species of sea turtles. They also house a stand of Guaiac Trees that had otherwise disappeared from the Lesser Antilles.
Since then, hunting and fishing, as well as the collecting and harvesting of wildlife from both land-based and marine sources, have been banned. In addition, mooring buoys were installed to protect the seabed by preventing anchor damage. The reserve is small, with a land area less than 2km2 and 8km2 of protected waters surrounding it. Yet it is alive with wildlife.
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We stayed on one of 10 moorings buoys available for visitors for four nights. We were positioned in the shallow lagoon that separated the two islands. From there, we could jump over the side and swim to the seagrass meadows and reef.
The seclusion, wildlife and adventurous access made these islands one of our favorite locations in the Eastern Caribbean.
The lagoon
Our first afternoon was spent exploring the lagoon. We swam against the current, which surged over the reef. The reef and lagoon are alive with activity, but much of it is a coral cemetery, a jumble of elkhorn, staghorn, and other coral skeletons that have fallen over and been covered with seaweed. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, both species used to dominate the Caribbean reef system’s shallows. However, they are now rare or critically endangered.
Lou scans out the horizon. Photo: Dr. Lou Luddington
In tropical waters, scenes like this are not uncommon. Bleaching events and disease have destroyed reef systems around the world. Recent studies revealed that half of the coral reefs in the world have disappeared over the past 40 years.
But there is still a lot to be amazed at, like sponges, fan-worms, octopus squeezing into a small hole, and clouds of fishes or sea cucumbers on the sand. We lose ourselves in the details as we swim out to the outer lagoon, where waves from the ocean wash into the lagoon, and then return to the calm, bright, shallows of inner lagoon, where chunky palometas rest, and goatfish feed. We head to the island when a chill starts to creep into our muscles.
The departure of the tour boats carrying day trippers to Guadeloupe coincides with our timing. It’s a deserted island except for a few yachties, so we go barefoot. Iguanas are everywhere. They climb vertical walls and cover the pathways. Each is decorated with faded colours and large scales. They also have a spike crest on their back. They are critically endangered and only found in the Lesser Antilles. Habitat loss and hunting have led to a severe decline. Despite their uninhabited nature, they are still abundant on these islands.
Heading ashore on Noctiluca’s inflatable dinghy. Photo by Dr. Lou Luddington
Royal terns, which plummet to the sea’s surface from the air, fire at the tiny fish below the surface of the water, before landing with a splash. Lemon sharks patrol the shallows, their tips of fins breaking the water surface.
Sunset underwater
We experience the magic underwater of a sunset while swimming back as the sun is low in the sky. Stingrays hunt the seabed in a cloud of rummaged sand, green turtles outpace us as they row for deeper water and shoals of surgeonfish pour back and forth across the reef, glowing blue-violet in the sun’s rays.
Under our boat, a sand tilese fish tends its mound coral fragments and slides into its hole as I dive down to take a look. I was so grateful to spend the afternoon in a different world.
We consider leaving on our third day, but when we look out at the exit passage, a wall white water is breaking across the coral reef. The swell had picked up, we weren’t going anywhere despite several tour boats arriving. I was happy to be trapped in a paradise.
Guadeloupe, one of their final stops in the Caribbean. Photo: Dr. Lou Luddington
We set out on day four thinking that the swell had dropped. However, we soon realised our mistake. As we approach the impact zone, the shoulder-high surf begins to break and pours into the cockpit. Our home bobs and lurches through the remainder of the set. It is only by holding our line that we reach clear water.
We certainly don’t have the horsepower to manoeuvre a 10-ton yacht through a reef break and feel lucky to have made it. We were a bit traumatised, but we agreed that our dramatic departure made the memories even more precious.
After leaving Iles de la Petite- Terre we head for St-François, a small coastal town on the south coast with a marina and sheltered anchorage. Ideal for a short tender or kayak trip to town for grocery supplies, boutique browsing and café time.
From here we edge back west towards Pointe-à-Pitre, stopping to anchor at Plage de Petit-Havre and Plage de Salines, the latter sheltered by a reef with good holding on seagrass, then finally to the popular and sheltered anchorage at Le Gosier. On a Sunday, we arrive to find jet-skis zipping around and loud music on Le Gosier Island. This is typical of Caribbean weekend parties.
Monday is a day of peace and tranquility. We settle in for a week filled with snorkelling and swimming over the luminous seagrass fields and to an island.
Tom settles in to Caribbean life from the cockpit. Photo by Dr. Lou Luddington
We decide to show up at the boatyard a few days later. With some gentle persuasion they find a spot for us the next day and suddenly it’s full steam ahead to get Noctiluca lifted.
In the boatyard, we tackle a number of tasks including installing a new bobstay and chainplate, removing a 100-litre bag of water (which burst also on the third of our crossing), cleaning the hull, replacing the anode, and tackling the cockroach invasion. It’s an incredibly sweaty, noisy few days and we are glad to be afloat again and on passage to the west coast.
Flying along at 6 knots, with two reefs in the mainsail and our genoa full and pulling us along for the first time in three months, we feel as though we’ve been set free.
Bathed by whale song
Guadeloupe is also home to the Cousteau marine park. You can reach the Cousteau marine reserve by dropping anchor near Plage de Malendure. A short dinghy journey to Pigeon Island will take you there. We dive in a place that is popular with dive operators and tour boats.
Terre-de-Haut island, Les Saintes. Photo: Dr. Lou Luddington
The reef is impressive and has a wide variety of marine life. I was encouraged to see that despite some severe hurricane damage in 2017, critically endangered elkhorn, staghorn and coral growing under the protection provided by the reserve. As with most Caribbean coral reefs, the giant barrel sponge dominates the view. They are known as the redwoods on the reef because of their enormous size and lifespan of over 2,000 years. They play an important role in the ecology of reef systems by filtering large amounts of seawater, maintaining coral health, and facilitating the regeneration of reefs.
The Guadeloupe national park and its adjacent waters are ideal for freediving and snorkelling. There are mooring balls on dive sites which mark spectacular volcanic features and wrecks at different depths. Our many freedives were often accompanied by a soundtrack of whale song – the unmistakable squeaks, groans and rumbles of male humpback whales singing. These whales belong to the north Atlantic population, which migrates 4,000 miles per season between summer feeding grounds of Norway and Iceland and winter breeding grounds of the South-Eastern Caribbean.
The islands offer excellent snorkelling. Photo: Dr. Lou Luddington
It was incredible to bathe their melodies in their vibrations. I was amazed at the sensitive feelings of these ocean beings.
Protected waters
Grand Cul-deSac Marine UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is located in the north part of Guadeloupe. This reserve protects a large area of coral islets, mangroves and seagrass. It was thrilling to navigate the shallow water and sail there from west coast.
A short trip to Guadeloupe’s north completed our patchy circumnavigation. We discovered secret spots, explored other areas that showed the human impact and development of the ocean. We were elated to have found this French-Caribbean jewel, whose finest corners left us breathless and with lasting memories.
The hawksbill swimming in the sunshine. Photo by Dr. Lou Luddington
Guadeloupe Cruise Tips
Pick the best time – The best period to cruise here is from December to May.
Choose a charter – The nearest yacht charters are available from Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe, at www.12knots.com and www.dreamyachtcharter.com.
Use a guide – The Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Antigua to Dominica by Chris Doyle and Lexi Fisher covers Guadeloupe.
Chart of Choice – Admiralty chart 593 shows approaches to Guadeloupe. Navionics charts seemed to be accurate in Guadeloupe.
Utilise Navily – Navily is a great for finding anchorages. www.navily.com
Iles de la petite-terre – This was one of our favourite anchorages with mooring balls in the marine reserve.
Noctiluca at Iles-des-Saintes in Guadeloupe. Photo by Dr. Lou Luddington
Magical Malendure – This is a popular anchorage with a dock for dinghy access to the beach and fishing harbour just south of the beach. Garages sell petrol and diesel, and supermarkets and hardware stores are nearby. Buses are available to take you on hiking trails or other parts of the Island. Pointe Pigeon offers more protection against swells and has a beautiful trail through the forest. There’s good snorkelling here too.
Finding a good marina – Marina Bas-du-Fort, at Pointe-à-Pitre, is a big, well-serviced marina. Reservations by phone or email are recommended. The staff is very friendly and the facilities are good. Customs check-in is easy and costs €5. It’s a busy boatyard with a lift and excellent boat services.
Marine de Riviére-sens – Located at Gourbeyre on the south-west coast of Basse-Terre, this is a friendly marina with a few facilities. Fuel and water are available.
Beware of Squalls – Squalls are the main consideration when considering the weather in this region and tend not to show on forecasts. You can spot them during the day as cumulonimbus cloud towers. Be cautious and reef early as the wind associated with them can be fierce.
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The post Cruising Guadeloupe, a couple explores a natural paradise filled with wonders appeared initially on Yachting Month.
