We pull away from dock and idle by a set of ornamental palm trees made entirely of propellers collected from the Homosassa River’s notoriously rocky channel on Florida’s west coast. This effigy serves as a reminder to local navigators of the dangers, but I ride in total confidence with Capt. William Toney is a slalom slalom-skier who has the confidence to traverse this minefield of limestone.
As we pass a waterfront tiki bar packed with sunburned tourists, I don’t give a thought to that menu’s offerings. I’m bound for an authentic “Old Florida” seafood lunch with no fancy dining room or valet parking — just a tranquil waterside clearing with cedars shading a memorable meal prepared by the same hands that deftly dodged those limestone motor munchers.

Running his 23-foot custom Tremblay tunnel hull out of MacRae’s Marina, Toney spends his days pointing out dolphin and manatees, and teaching clients how to catch the speckled trout, redfish, pompano and…
